University of Michigan Revives Historic African American Cookbook

The oldest known cookbook by an African American woman, first published in 1866, gets a new edition and free ebook release for Black History Month.

In celebration of Black History Month, the University of Michigan Press has released a new edition of A Domestic Cook Book by Malinda Russell—the oldest known published cookbook by an African American woman. First printed in 1866 in Paw Paw, Michigan, the cookbook is now freely available as an open-access ebook to provide broad access to this rare piece of American culinary history.

“Publishing this book as a handsome new print edition means that people can purchase copies for their cookbook collections, and publishing it open access means that anyone, anywhere in the world with an internet connection can access this piece of Black culinary history and try their hand at these recipes,” explains Dr. Sara Jo Cohen, Editorial Director, University of Michigan Press

A Landmark in African American Culinary Heritage

Born in Tennessee to free African American parents, Malinda Russell lived a remarkable life. Initially planning to emigrate to Liberia at age 19, Russell’s plans changed after being robbed of her savings in Lynchburg, Virginia. She became a nurse and cook, eventually moving to Tennessee, where she ran a boarding house and pastry shop. A second robbery forced her to flee again—this time to Paw Paw, Michigan, where she published her groundbreaking cookbook to support herself.

The Domestic Cook Book contains 260 recipes and household tips that reflect Russell’s two decades of experience in Southern kitchens and her expertise as a pastry chef. Her recipes reveal an advanced culinary skill set, challenging stereotypes of the time about African American cooking.

A New Edition for Modern Readers

The University of Michigan’s new edition draws from the only known original copy, which is preserved in the Janice Bluestein Longone Culinary Archive at the U-M Library’s Special Collections Research Center.

Cohen describes the impact working with the Center has had on the reproduction; “It’s been a privilege to collaborate with the Special Collections Research Center and curator Juli McLoone to bring this book back to life. The new edition has a fresh design that’s much easier to read than the original as well as a short introductory essay written by scholar, cook, and Malinda Russell fan Rafia Zafar.”

The Zingerman’s Connection

Longone, a trailblazer in food history, left a profound mark on America’s culinary landscape before her passing in 2022. Her influence stretched beyond academia, helping shape the evolving restaurant culture of the 1970s and 80s by connecting chefs and sharing her extensive knowledge of food history. As Ari Weinzweig, co-founder of Ann Arbor’s renowned Zingerman’s Deli, stated in The New York Times upon her passing:

“I knew relatively very little about food, and we were about to start selling artisan cheese and smoked fish, so I needed to learn. As a history major, going to Jan’s basement to look at books was way more exciting for me than going to a candy store.”

Associate University Librarian at U-M’s Library Charles Watkinson echoes the appreciation many area residents may have for the Zingerman’s connection. “I love the local throughline that connects Malinda Russell in Paw Paw to Ari Weinzweig, co-founder of Zingerman’s,” says Watkinson. “That connection flows through Jan Longone, the curator of historic cookbooks whose archive the rare original of A Domestic Cookbook comes from. The Janice Bluestein Longone Culinary Archive is now a destination collection in the U-M Library Special Collections Research Center.”

Juli McLoone, Curator, U-M Library Special Collections Research Center, adds that Longone’s love of helping others explore culinary history led her to cross paths with Zingerman’s Weinzweig;  “She was always especially proud to have been part of the early history of Zingerman’s Deli by welcoming Ari Weinzweig to explore her collection for recipes.”

A Special Event at the Ann Arbor District Library

To mark the release of the new edition, the Ann Arbor District Library will host an event on Thursday, February 27, from 5:15 p.m. to 7:00 p.m. at the Downtown Library’s 4th Floor Meeting Room. The evening will include a reception and a panel discussion on the significance of Russell’s cookbook and its place in both Michigan and American culinary history.

The event will also be live-streamed for those who cannot attend in person. However, due to permissions, a recording will not be available for later viewing.

Free Download

The open-access ebook is available for free download at https://press.umich.edu/Books/A/A-Domestic-Cook-Book or use the QR code.

Images provided by U-M Press