When the donuts call, we must go

The Dexter Cider Mill opened today, Friday, August 23, autumn’s unofficial opening day.

Sure, the calendar says the first day of fall isn’t yet for another month, but when the aroma of cider and cinnamon donuts tickles your nose, it’s hard not to hear the clack of colorful dried leaves blown across the pavement and feel cooler air on your skin.

That is the magic and charm of Michigan’s cider season, and leading the way is the Dexter Cider Mill, Michigan’s longest contiguous running cider mill, now in its 138th year. The mill is owned and operated by husband/wife team Marty and Nancy Steinhauer.

With renowned cider and donuts at the core of their operation, the Steinhauers look to add another element or two to the cider mill every year. In addition to the apples, crafted condiments, pastries, and stylish swag, the Steinhauers have a hard cider tasting room.

The Cider Mill was built in 1886 by Dexter resident William Van Natter, a Civil War veteran. In 1898, John Wagner of the Village of Scio leased the cider mill from the aging Van Natter, who died the following year. In 1900, Wagner and Will Cromwell purchased it from the Van Natter family. By 1956, John Wagner’s son, Otto, had taken over the cider mill. He installed a griddle and began selling donuts.

Ahhh, those donuts.

For most of its life, the cider mill was primarily a commercial operation supplying stores with cider, apple juice, grape juice, and jellies. However, customers still lined up then as they do now to get their cider and donuts.

Upon Otto Wagner’s death in 1964, his son Fred continued operations. When Fred passed away in 1981, his wife Katherine assumed control of the mill. Richard Koziski had first visited the Wagner Cider Mill in 1961 on a date. As a teen, he had worked in apple orchards and cider mills in Massachusetts. The cider mill was a nostalgic tug for him. “I’m going to own a mill like this someday,” he told his date. Twenty-five years later, he purchased the cider mill. That young lady was now his wife. In 2006, Rich sold the cider mill to his daughter and son-in-law, Nancy and Marty Steinhauer.

Nancy and Marty keep the tradition alive with their proprietary blend of five different kinds of apples pressed in the mill’s oak press. A few years ago, Marty and his sons began crafting a deliciously clean hard cider. Pies and pastries are often available in addition to the donuts.

It’s a little mind-boggling to think that only three families have owned the Dexter Cider Mill in its 136-year history—Van Natter, Wagner, and Koziski (Steinhauer). And a visit there is to follow in the footsteps of generations before us. We’ve always liked cider.

A couple of things to keep in mind upon your visit to the Dexter Cider Mill:

1. Hours are 8-5, Wed-Sat. The address is 3685 Central St.
2. They only accept cash or check payments, but an ATM is on site.
3. Parking is tight in their lot. But plenty of parking is available within a short distance walk. Refer to the Dexter Cider Mill map at https://www.dextercidermill.com/
   to plan ahead.